Do You Need A Jointer Plane? 47 Tips

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47 Tips for Do You Need A Jointer Plane | Paul Sellers Jointer Plane

• With built-in leveling bars that will stabilize any board, this amazing jig sets up the fastest. It takes more time to build than the previous two, but it’s darn impressive. It’s also heavier than the other sleds, so I would add a support stand at the back end of the planer to help me handle it. - Source: Internet
• As with other hand planes, jointer planes were originally made with wooden bodies. But, since the development of the metal-bodied hand plane at the end of the 19th century, wooden-bodied jointers have been largely superseded. Metal-bodied planes are heavier, which is particularly noticeable for planes as large as jointers. This can make metal-bodied jointers more tiring to use for extended periods of time.[6] - Source: Internet
• A jointer would be helpful if you plan to use rough cut lumber. If you just need to reduce the thickness of dimensional lumber, a planer might be all you’ll need. But again, many times you’ll need both machines to get the best results. - Source: Internet
• A few words of warning. This works best if the lumber was stored indoors, closer to the conditions of your shop. That’s because wood moves and warps when the relative humidity changes. So this is a good method for finding straight boards to put through your planer, but not the best. - Source: Internet
• I’d agree with what David’s written. For somebody doing their bulk stock preparation by machine, for finishing surfaces only a smoothing plane is needed. However - there is a slight caveat, which is that preparing board edges for glue-joints is best done with a longer plane. That need not necessarily be a full try or jointer length, but longer is better than shorter to remove any humps or dips there might be, and makes getting a close-fitting joint quicker and easier than with a shorter plane. A good compromise that some adopt is to use a plane of jack length with a fine-set blade having only a very slight camber, or square with just the corners eased, for both surface smoothing and edge jointing. - Source: Internet
• For do-it-yourselfers, a benchtop jointer is a popular choice. They are small enough to use on a workbench and light, making them easy to transport and store. Benchtop jointers are ideal for woodworkers who don’t need the power of a bigger, more expensive cabinet-style jointer. - Source: Internet
• You could also flatten the opposing face and square the opposite edge, but a jointer has a number of drawbacks. The first is that jointers lack the ability to control the finished thickness of a board. In other words, there isn’t a way for a jointer to cut several boards to the same thickness. Furthermore, jointers are unable to ensure that the second face or edge is parallel to the first. - Source: Internet
• A jointer can flatten and square a board, but it can’t mill a board to a consistent thickness, nor is it useful for milling a board to precise dimensions. While you can use a jointer to flatten both faces or all four sides of a piece, this usually results in a tapered board, or a board that’s thicker on one end than the other. A jointer can produce flat edges, but it’s not designed to keep opposing sides parallel to each other. - Source: Internet
• Sharpen first on a wet medium-grit water or oil stone or on 220-grit wet/dry sandpaper placed on a dead-flat surface, such as glass or marble tile. Repeat the process on a fine stone or a finer-grit sandpaper. Stroke with a circular motion until you feel a burr on the back of the edge, then flip the iron over to remove the burr by rubbing the back flat on the stone, leaving a clean, sharp edge. Finally, keep the iron sharp when not in use by storing the plane on its side and cleaning off resin from softwoods with a rag that’s been dipped in turpentine or paint thinner. - Source: Internet
• I don’t own a jointer and probably (almost certainly) never will. A 6” machine is very limited as far as face jointing and bed length is concerned and an 8” machine isn’t much better, but cost considerably more, and takes up a lot of space. It may seem odd coming from someone who makes furniture every day, but I’m also a bit afraid of the jointer when used for face jointing, especially some of those 12” plus behemoths I see. - Source: Internet
• The pocket-size block plane is ideal for trimming small areas, but it’s too short to straighten boards. The blade is positioned bevel side up; better models have an adjustable mouth for a super-thin shaving. Block planes come in two varieties: standard, with a blade pitched at 20 degrees, and low-angle, with a 12-degree pitch. - Source: Internet
• A jointer is a must-have tool for working with rough-cut lumber. Rough cut lumber has not been milled to its final thickness or dimensions. The surface has saw marks, and it feels rough to the touch. - Source: Internet
• Here’s the rub: The jointer is a heavier, pricier tool than a basic planer, and any model wider than 6 in. starts getting pretty expensive, even if you buy it used (not a bad idea). That means you don’t just need a jointer; you need one as wide as the boards you’ll commonly use. - Source: Internet
• A planing sled is constructed from a flat piece of material like MDF. A stop, which is shorter than the board’s final thickness, is mounted at the back edge of the sled. The workpiece is positioned on the sled, and any gaps between the board and sled are wedged with shims to keep it steady. As the workpiece passes through the planer, it’s held in place by the stop. - Source: Internet
• Benchtop planers are a popular choice for DIYers because of their low cost and small size. They are compact enough to use on a workbench and light, making them convenient to transport and store. Benchtop planers are excellent for woodworkers who don’t require the industrial strength of a larger, more expensive floor model planer. - Source: Internet
• In this quick video, Dillon Ryan demonstrates the simplest path to flattening wide boards in your planer, using the most basic of sleds. This one is nothing more than a piece of plywood with a stop on one end, to keep the board from sliding off the sled, plus small edges hot-glued under the stock on the top side. You can make it from scrap in about 10 minutes, and if you make it long enough, it will work on all sorts of boards. - Source: Internet
• Although the benefits of a planer are appealing, it also has some drawbacks. Because the rollers apply pressure to workpieces, planers can’t correct imperfections like warped, cupped, bowed, or twisted boards. In other words, you’ll need to use a jointer first to make the board flat before using a planer. - Source: Internet
• Your need for a jointer depends on your type of work. If you buy dressed lumber, or if you’re just getting into woodworking, you probably don’t need a jointer at this point. On the other hand, if you want to save money by purchasing rough lumber, or if your cabinets or furniture projects call for precise dimensions and angles or advanced joinery, a jointer can help make your milling process easier and more accurate. - Source: Internet
• Jointer planes are typically 20 to 24 inches (510 to 610 mm) long, and are the longest hand planes commonly used.[2] Under the Stanley Bailey numbering system #7 and #8 planes are jointer planes.[4] - Source: Internet
• For example, let’s say you bought some rough cut wood from a sawmill. In this situation, you’ll need to use both machines to prepare the wood for your project. First, you would use the jointer to flatten one face. Then, you would use a planer to make the opposing face parallel with a uniform thickness. - Source: Internet
• Take for example a woodworker that’s been involved in the craft using machines for a few years. This person has a power jointer and planer in their shop, but wants to start incorporating more hand tools into their work. In this case, I’d recommend starting with a smoothing plane. - Source: Internet
• A decent new plane will cost $40 and up at the hardware store. Woodworking catalogs carry a more extensive selection. But don’t overlook the many fine used planes for sale at flea markets and antiques shops. These vintage tools were built to last, and there’s plenty of life in them still. - Source: Internet
• One of the first milling tools most people buy is a thickness planer. That’s because a 12- or 13-in.-wide lunchbox-style planer is relatively affordable. Soon afterward, you discover your beautiful planer’s Achilles heel: Send in a curved board, and it emerges just as curved—smooth, yes, with uniform thickness, but what good is that if the board is still warped? - Source: Internet
• Edge jointing and flattening board faces are critical tasks during just about every project. A thickness planer alone doesn’t make boards flat, and it cannot edge joint. For these tasks, the jointer plane reigns supreme. The long sole makes flattening and edge jointing its specialty, so it’s the ideal tool in this case. - Source: Internet
• So if you’re new to hand planes and looking to purchase your first one, don’t just blindly purchase any old bench plane. Consider your current situation and the tools that you already have and choose a plane that will either give you capabilities that you don’t currently have, or one that will improve your current processes. There’s no one size fits all first hand plane. Assess your own situation, and choose the type of plane to buy according to your own personal needs. - Source: Internet
• You can opt to use a router as a planer. You would need to construct a router sled like the one in the video below first. But once you set it up, it will get the job done! - Source: Internet
• : Wood is naturally imperfect; it warps, cups, and twists unpredictably, especially as it dries. Once your stock adjusts to the relative humidity of your shop, you can straighten and flatten defective boards using a jointer. Dress boards : The most affordable way to purchase lumber is to buy it rough, meaning you’ll have to mill, or dress, the lumber yourself. A jointer can help bring your boards to dimension by surfacing one or two sides, preparing pieces for a planer. A jointer can also reveal grain direction by unveiling what’s beneath the rough outer layer. - Source: Internet
• The use of the name jointer plane dates back to at least the 17th century, referring to the process of readying the edges of boards for jointing.[5] The terms try plane, trying plane, and trueing plane have been in use since at least the 19th century.[3] - Source: Internet
• The jointer plane, also known as the try plane or trying plane, is a type of hand plane used in woodworking to straighten the edges of boards in the process known as jointing, and to flatten the faces of larger boards.[2] Its long length is designed to ‘ride over’ the undulations of an uneven surface, skimming off the peaks, gradually creating a flatter surface. In thicknessing or preparing rough stock, the jointer plane is usually preceded by the fore plane or jack plane and followed by the smoothing plane.[2][3] - Source: Internet
• Jack planes and jointer plane are not just different sizes, they have different blade profiles suited to different tasks. The jack plane is typically set up for quick, rough work, and the jointer plane is usually set finer. While the jack plane can be set up like a jointer, it’s shorter length is a disadvantage for those tasks. And while the jointer plane can be set up for rough work, its weight will exhaust the user when used in that way. So in this case, the ideal solution is to start with the jack plane and buy a jointer plane soon after. - Source: Internet
• Common bench planes range in length from 9 to 22 inches or more. The longer the plane, the better it will straighten an edge, because the long body bridges dips and rises in the board’s surface. The blade, or iron, of a bench plane is pitched at 45 degrees, bevel side down. A cap iron stiffens the blade and directs shavings away from the mouth. - Source: Internet
• Before power planers, a jack plane smoothed and squared rough lumber. Good for truing long boards and removing warp or twist. At 12 to 17 inches, it’s more versatile than the larger jointer plane. - Source: Internet
• There was a time where a hand plane was an indispensable tool, used to smooth, shape, and straighten just about every piece of wood in a house. The typical carpenter lugged around a whole chestful of planes, each with its own special function. Today, power tools — routers, jointers, belt sanders, and power planers — do the same tasks much faster, relegating many old planes to the shelves of collectors. There aren’t as many types as there once were, but the hand plane is far from extinct. - Source: Internet
• The average depth of cut for most projects is around 1/16 to 1/8 inch, which explains why jointers come in various sizes. A 6-inch jointer is the most common, meaning the cutter head is 6 inches long, making this the maximum board width the machine can handle. The length of the infeed and outfeed tables, known as the bed, also varies; the longer the bed, the larger the reference area, and the longer the boards the jointer can process. As a general rule, a jointer can handle boards up to twice the length of its bed. - Source: Internet
• While the inestimable Mike Pekovich didn’t invent this technique, he demonstrates it beautifully in his video series on making a hayrake-style dining table. You’ll need a membership to watch this one, but a FWW.com membership is the best tool you can buy! - Source: Internet
• The dust port is where the wood chips exit the jointer. The amount of chips and dust created by a jointer can be overwhelming. To help control the mess, the port is usually connected to a ShopVac or dust collection system that collects the waste. Some jointers do not include dust ports and need to be purchased separately from an online retailer. - Source: Internet
• This sled is drawn from the Workshop Tips department of FWW, and is built around one of those long clamp-on straightedges you can use to guide a circular saw or router. In this case, it’s inset into the sled, so it can grab the front and back edge of any board. After that, you just stick a few wedges under the board to level and stabilize it, and into the planer it goes. Like the next sled below, you could just build this one and use it indefinitely, never needing a jointer at all. - Source: Internet
• Let’s face it, this woodworker is flattening, jointing and thicknessing lumber with machines. They aren’t going to get much use out of a jack plane or jointer plane. Rather, they’re going to see the most benefit using a plane to do the majority of their surface prep before applying finish. That means a smoothing plane will be the best first plane for them. Using a smoothing plane before, or in place of sanding will make surface preparation much faster, and much less dusty. - Source: Internet
• Jointers and planers are different, but often used in unison. Most woodworkers would agree you need a jointer and planer to get the most out of your rough lumber. There are also jointer-planer combos on the market. - Source: Internet
• Once a board has parallel faces, planers may be used to reduce it to the exact thickness you want for your project. For example, you may have a board that is 1/2″, but you need a board that is 3/8″. You can use the planer to remove small amounts of material from the board until it’s the desired thickness. - Source: Internet
• A jointer is a woodworking machine that functions like a hand plane to smooth the surface of boards. There are several key differences between a jointer and a hand plane. A plane is a handheld tool operated without electricity, while a jointer is a power tool. - Source: Internet
• Some block planes have a mouth adjustment knob to vary the width of the mouth opening. A narrow opening produces a thinner shaving and is best for fine finishing. A wider opening allows for a deeper bite and faster wood removal, but increases the chance of tearing the grain. - Source: Internet
• If you lack a wide jointer, you’re going to need your planer sled pretty often, so it’s nice to have one that is quick to set up and always ready to go. That’s why this jointing sled is my personal favorite. It offers an excellent balance of short construction time and fast setup. - Source: Internet
• Don’t panic just yet. While you are waiting to buy an 8- or 12-in.-wide jointer that can keep up with your planer, or maybe even a 12-in. jointer/planer combo machine with a segmented carbide head (insert angelic chorus), here are a few great ways to get flat, straight boards without owning a wide jointer. I’ll start with the simplest option, showing you just how easy it is to get out of jointer jeopardy. - Source: Internet
• The bed of a jointer is made up of two adjustable tables. The first is the infeed table, which receives the workpiece. The workpiece is positioned on the infeed table and pushed across the cutter head to the outfeed table. The infeed table may be raised or lowered to control how much material is removed from the workpiece. - Source: Internet
• The advantage is single jointer/planer combination machine takes up less room than an individual jointer and planer. However, changing the set up from one to the other takes time, making a combo machine less convenient than having a separate jointer and planer. Also, some combination machines might be too costly for many DIYers. - Source: Internet
• In a recent segment of my Hand Plane Foundations course, I made some recommendations for someone purchasing their first hand plane. Far too often I see blanket recommendations made for the best first hand plane. The problem with the majority of these recommendations is that they don’t take into consideration the individual’s staring point. This is a critical mistake in my opinion as not everyone will get the same benefit from the same planes. - Source: Internet

Here are a few tips to help you find information about Jointer Planer Combo: - Look for good places to get information about do i need a jointer planer. This can be done in libraries, on websites, or even by paid journalists. - When looking for information about do you need a jointer plane, it's important to know that there are different kinds of online sources, like Google and YouTube. Social media sites like Facebook and Twitter are also good places to look for information about do you need a jointer if you have a planer.

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